A Visit to Loreto, Mexico and the Sea of Cortez

Maybe it is caused by too many movies as a child, but more likely it is an overly active imagination, either way, when I imagine the airport and immigration pre-trip at a new-to-me foreign country, it is never the reality.  Fortunately, the reality is always better than the imagination.

Loreto, Mexico is a little town on the Sea of Cortez about two thirds of the way down the Baha Peninsula. Needless to say, no thatched buildings and no chickens in the small, but nevertheless swoopy modern steel and glass airport.  As I often learn when I go into a foreign airport, Honolulu really does have some of the worst airport restrooms that I have ever visited. However, I had just transited Los Angeles, so I knew that Honolulu did not have the worst airport bathrooms.  Yes, the Loreto airport's restrooms were a cross between space age and house beautiful.  

Infrastructure and plumbing inspected, passports stamped and rent a car picked up we headed into town for lunch and a look around.  Loreto is a sweet little dusty Mexican town of about 10,000 Mexicans and about 5,000 expats mostly from North America.

  

Loreto, a nice little town with very big mountains

At the advice of an expat couple in the immigration line we chose La Palapa for our first lunch in Loreto.  I had been to Mexico very briefly once before and I have fond memories of my first real Mexican lunch and my first real Mexican Margarita.  This trip gave me fond memories of my first Mexican lunch in Loreto.

Even if the food did not turn out to be good, the photo ops alone were worth the price of lunch.

  

Chocolate Clams, no only delicious, but an ample supply

We had been reading about the Chocolate Clams of the Sea of Cortez, named chocolate clams not for their flavor, but for their gorgeous chocolate colored shells. Were overjoyed when the very first restaurant we entered not only served them, but they were delicious too.

This fish turned out to be oh so much more than a great photo op.  Hot and crispy on the outside, sweet, mild and fresh on the inside.

Loreto was founded in 1697 by Jesuit missionaries and it was the first Spanish Settlement on the Baja California Peninsula.  Loreto was the capital of Las Californias from 1697 until 1777 when the capital was moved to Monterey. 

The Mission of our Lady of Loreto was built by Father Jaime Bravo during the 1830s.  It has been damaged by earthquakes and repaired several times and may not be exactly as originally built. Nevertheless, it is a very beautiful church.

This was considered the first mission in Baja California and the starting point from where the Jesuits went out to share Christianity with the new American territory.

Most tourists come to Loreto for diving, swimming, snorkeling and fishing in the Sea of Cortez and we were no exception. Loreto is not Cabo,so sorry, no Tequila drinking in a bikini contests here.  For those who don't love nature it is advisable is keep moving on down South to Cabo.   

Parque Marino Nacional Bahia de Loreto was established in 1996 as a marine preserve. It is Mexico's largest marine preserve, an UNESCO World Heritage Site and home to over 891 species of fish. It consists of 2065 square Kilometers of shoreline, five offshore islands and countless rocky sea stacks.  While fishing is not prohibited, it is strictly controlled.  

We went scuba diving, snorkeling, swimming, kayaking and boat riding.  In October the water is clear and warm.  Clear is relative, Loreto waters were not the gin clear found in some parts of the South Pacific and it is my belief that less clear translates into more very small things for very small fish to eat and thus sustenance on up the food chain until we see the big fish that I would like to eat.

Site of our first dive in Loreto

Presumably because of the controlled fishing we saw numerous food fish as well as large lobsters when we were diving. On our first dive the dive master pointed up and we saw sea lions swimming above us.  

Our hotel was located about 45 minutes out of town on a mostly well paved road.  By luck and timing rather than skill, we missed a terrible rain storm that washed out parts of the road between town and our resort and stranded guests at our hotel for several days.

La Giganta Mountain Range with Grand Canyon Like Cliffs

 
The original road was very well paved and the sections that had been washed out were under construction. Once again, overall the roads were far better than Honolulu roads.  The other benefit of the recent heavy rains was that the normally dry vegetation had turned bright green.  

The Villa Del Palmar was a lovely time share/resort built behind a calm sheltered bay plunked down in the middle of the desert.  The perfect mix of nature and creature comforts.

Once again, no skill on our part in picking this little slice of paradise as some friends who owned a timeshare with the Villa Group had invited us to join them in Loreto. Thanks guys.

Signs on the beach advised that when walking in the water one should shuffle their feet to avoid stepping on a stingray.  The rays were almost the color of sand, about the size of a dinner plate and quite plentiful. The bay had a smooth sandy bottom with few rock formations to attract fish and few things on which to stub a toe.  The edges of the bay were another story with so many colorful fish that sometimes it felt like fishy rush hour and we had to compete for ocean space.

The Bay at sunrise

 The Clams Pre-Lunch

We had read that we could gather Chocolate Clams in the bay in front of the resort, but many swims did not reveal any clams.  Finally we resorted to asking the kayak rental person to tell us how to gather Chocolate Clams.  He said to look for their eyes in about 10 feet of water and when they retreat into the sand dig in that spot and you will find a clam.  Larry and I set off in search of clams.  I soon grew bored, but true to his hunter gatherer nature Larry returned with a bag of clams, which we cooked and ate.

I am from Hawaii and have lived there almost all of my life.  As a result some things that are common to others are unusual and fascinating to me.  Cacti and desert plants and animals are big time novelties for me.  

A relatively short hike from the resort was full of novelty and at the end of the trail a swimming beach with a smooth rock seashore. Even though I am from Hawaii clear water, colorful fish and sheer sea cliffs never cease to attract me.  

Speaking of the neat and new, I had never seen a Tarantula in real life. Our scuba guide assured me that they are not poisonous and in general somewhat timid. Their hair can cause a skin irritation and so he advised against trying to pet one--no problem there. Coming home from town one night a tarantula was spotted in the road. I insisted that the car be stopped so I could get out and see the little critter, take his picture and see how close I could get before one of us got scared away.  

The Malecon at Sunset

The Villa Del Palmar did not lack for creature comfort or food in anyway, however one does not live on resort food alone and soon we were venturing into town for dinner.  The long smooth road into town seemed to shorten daily and soon our 45 minute drive was a 35 minute drive.  One night we returned to La Palapa for their seafood platter which was devine.  We also enjoyed the end of the day activity and the sunset light in this pretty little town.

Seafood Platter at La Palapa

 

A Visit to the Mercedes Factory; Becoming Motoring Tourists

Last Summer, while I was minding my own business, Larry said the fatal words: "We are going to have to begin thinking about getting you a new car."  I already have a car.  I have a ten year old BMW convertible that is my car. Why would I want a new car?

 

Soon logic won out and we began shopping for a car.  It has been a long time since I have darkened the doorstep of a car dealership and frankly, I was not impressed.  Cars sure have gotten expensive and they have some nice features, but not that nice.  I was ready to invite some car salesmen home for dinner, others, not so much.  It is true that I live on a small island in the middle of the Pacific Ocean and it takes a long time for things to get here.  However, it seemed like an awful lot of the cars on the lots were dark grey with black interiors or similar such uninspiring combinations and most of the options less than state of the art.  I understand that dealers want to move what they have, but if I am willing to wait I should at least be able to get the color I want.  Dream at night girl!  As time wore on I just was not feeling the excitement necessary to feel good about plunking down a large chunk of money. 

 

Almost as idle "Bar Talk" we began talking about the European Delivery Program for Americans purchasing new European cars and a great idea was launched.  Before we knew it we had ordered a Mercedes E350 Coupe with tan leather seats the color of a basket ball, in a pearly white color called Diamond White Metallic with loads of extremely cool options, including a sunroof.  I usually keep a car for a very long time so I don't want my new car to be out of date on the day I pick it up.  Our delivery date was early September but we got an email in mid Summer advising us that our car was built on July 22 and ready for pick up, but not to worry, they would keep it safe and dry until we were ready to pick it up.

 

My First Train Ride on My First Trip to Europe

We arrived in Frankfurt, Germany on September 3, 2012.  It takes a very long time to get to Germany from Hawaii.  We took a train  from Frankfurt to Stuttgart where we stayed in an amazing hotel courtesy of Mercedes Benz.  I have always said that it is better to travel at any level than to not travel and I pride myself on not being a "princess," so I have stayed in my share of less than five star accommodations over the years, but just the same, I loved this hotel.  And I really loved the breakfast buffet.  In fact when people ask me what the best thing on was trip was, German breakfast buffets come to mind as one of the top five best things. 

In the spirit of changing car brands with gusto and earnestness, we began our first day in Germany with a visit to the Stuttgart Mercedes Museum.  The exterior sight of the museum itself was worth the train ride.



 At the museum we learned that Henry Ford did not invent the first automobile. In 1885 Gottlieb Daimlier powered a wood spoked 2 wheeler with a 4 cycle internal combustion engine which was less than one horsepower.  In 1844 Carl Benz was granted a patent on a 3 wheel motor car with a 3/4 horsepower engine fueled by benzene.  Daimlier is not credited with inventing the first horseless carriage, but he is credited with inventing the internal combustion engine.  By contract, Ford Motor Company was incorporated on June 16, 1903.

We also learned about  Austrian businessman and avid car racer Emil Jellinek.  In 1898 he raced at Nice Race week under the pseudonym Mercedes, which was the name of his ten year old daughter.  At this time in history race names referred to the team and the driver, not the car.  In 1900 Jellinek made an agreement with Daimlier concerning the sale of cars and engines.  As part of the agreement it was decided that a new engine with the name Daimlier-Mercedes would be developed.

 

The big lesson at the museum is that  Mercedes has built a heck of a lot of very beautiful cars in its history.

After our enlightenment, we headed off on a tour of a Mercedes factory that manufactures diesel engines.   

The majority of the production is done by robots.  Their movements were a sight of beautiful robotic choreography to the extent that I kept expecting Swan Lake to begin melodizing in the background.  Many parts of the production are done in sealed enclosures to keep contamination out of sealed parts.  While the robots are waltzing, humans do important tasks like deliver fasteners. 

 

The Beautiful Mercedes Lobby

Day two was the day we had been dreaming about for months, the day we were to pick up our new "baby." The pickup center at the Mercedes factory in Singlefegen is a blend of modern high tech sleekness and zen beauty. 

 

The First of Many Photos of the Car

After completing a remarkably small amount of paperwork we were directed to a waiting area that overlooked a large indoor area where new cars were parked while they waited for their owners.  We clustered around a railing with the other new owners waiting for the roll top door to open and our new cars to roll out. 

 

My Car Has Arrived

Soon an adorable white E350 coupe with her lights on rolled out the doors.  A few minutes later a technician escorted us to our new car.  In short it was everything we had expected and more.  Every single feature we had requested was indeed installed on the car and everything was just like in the picture.

 

Me and the Technician

The last time I bought a car the salesman said, I am not actually too familiar with these, but I can show you how the remote key works.  This time it was a little different. The technician  demonstrated all the features of the car and let us play with everything so that we knew that we knew how they worked. 

After our briefing we joined the rest of the new owners on a tour of a C Class Sedan factory.  We were not allowed to take pictures, but we were given safety goggles.

 

Once again, those beautiful robots were at work.  Modern production genius created beautiful cars with precise robotic arms.  After each step the robots performed a quality control check and re-calibrated their function; and our love for our new car grew.

The entire dashboard is pre-assembled, a robotic arm carefully threads it through an open window and plugs it in, two more arms appear on either side and install the four screws that hold the dashboard in place.

The Factory served a very nice lunch with a beautiful desert

Mercedes does not build cars, they build specific cars.  When the production of a car begins a bar code sticker is placed on the chassis so that the robots know which specific car is being built.  The bar code is scanned at each step of the process so that every part, piece, option and color is correct.  When my car was built, the computers already knew from the very first piece that they were building my car and that it was going to live in Hawaii.

 

 

Soon we were off to the unknown in our new car tooling down a beautiful German road as motoring tourists.  Our first stop was Freudenstadt on the edge of the Black forest.