Loreto, Mexico is a little town on the Sea of Cortez about two thirds of the way down the Baha Peninsula. Needless to say, no thatched buildings and no chickens in the small, but nevertheless swoopy modern steel and glass airport. As I often learn when I go into a foreign airport, Honolulu really does have some of the worst airport restrooms that I have ever visited. However, I had just transited Los Angeles, so I knew that Honolulu did not have the worst airport bathrooms. Yes, the Loreto airport's restrooms were a cross between space age and house beautiful.
Infrastructure and plumbing inspected, passports stamped and rent a car picked up we headed into town for lunch and a look around. Loreto is a sweet little dusty Mexican town of about 10,000 Mexicans and about 5,000 expats mostly from North America.
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| Loreto, a nice little town with very big mountains |
At the advice of an expat couple in the immigration line we chose La Palapa for our first lunch in Loreto. I had been to Mexico very briefly once before and I have fond memories of my first real Mexican lunch and my first real Mexican Margarita. This trip gave me fond memories of my first Mexican lunch in Loreto.
Even if the food did not turn out to be good, the photo ops alone were worth the price of lunch.
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| Chocolate Clams, no only delicious, but an ample supply |
We had been reading about the Chocolate Clams of the Sea of Cortez, named chocolate clams not for their flavor, but for their gorgeous chocolate colored shells. Were overjoyed when the very first restaurant we entered not only served them, but they were delicious too.
This fish turned out to be oh so much more than a great photo op. Hot and crispy on the outside, sweet, mild and fresh on the inside.
Loreto was founded in 1697 by Jesuit missionaries and it was the first Spanish Settlement on the Baja California Peninsula. Loreto was the capital of Las Californias from 1697 until 1777 when the capital was moved to Monterey.
The Mission of our Lady of Loreto was built by Father Jaime Bravo during the 1830s. It has been damaged by earthquakes and repaired several times and may not be exactly as originally built. Nevertheless, it is a very beautiful church.
This was considered the first mission in Baja California and the starting point from where the Jesuits went out to share Christianity with the new American territory.
Most tourists come to Loreto for diving, swimming, snorkeling and fishing in the Sea of Cortez and we were no exception. Loreto is not Cabo,so sorry, no Tequila drinking in a bikini contests here. For those who don't love nature it is advisable is keep moving on down South to Cabo.
Parque Marino Nacional Bahia de Loreto was established in 1996 as a marine preserve. It is Mexico's largest marine preserve, an UNESCO World Heritage Site and home to over 891 species of fish. It consists of 2065 square Kilometers of shoreline, five offshore islands and countless rocky sea stacks. While fishing is not prohibited, it is strictly controlled.
We went scuba diving, snorkeling, swimming, kayaking and boat riding. In October the water is clear and warm. Clear is relative, Loreto waters were not the gin clear found in some parts of the South Pacific and it is my belief that less clear translates into more very small things for very small fish to eat and thus sustenance on up the food chain until we see the big fish that I would like to eat.
Presumably because of the controlled fishing we saw numerous food fish as well as large lobsters when we were diving. On our first dive the dive master pointed up and we saw sea lions swimming above us.
Our hotel was located about 45 minutes out of town on a mostly well paved road. By luck and timing rather than skill, we missed a terrible rain storm that washed out parts of the road between town and our resort and stranded guests at our hotel for several days.
The original road was very well paved and the sections that had been washed out were under construction. Once again, overall the roads were far better than Honolulu roads. The other benefit of the recent heavy rains was that the normally dry vegetation had turned bright green.
The Villa Del Palmar was a lovely time share/resort built behind a calm sheltered bay plunked down in the middle of the desert. The perfect mix of nature and creature comforts.
Once again, no skill on our part in picking this little slice of paradise as some friends who owned a timeshare with the Villa Group had invited us to join them in Loreto. Thanks guys.
Signs on the beach advised that when walking in the water one should shuffle their feet to avoid stepping on a stingray. The rays were almost the color of sand, about the size of a dinner plate and quite plentiful. The bay had a smooth sandy bottom with few rock formations to attract fish and few things on which to stub a toe. The edges of the bay were another story with so many colorful fish that sometimes it felt like fishy rush hour and we had to compete for ocean space.
We had read that we could gather Chocolate Clams in the bay in front of the resort, but many swims did not reveal any clams. Finally we resorted to asking the kayak rental person to tell us how to gather Chocolate Clams. He said to look for their eyes in about 10 feet of water and when they retreat into the sand dig in that spot and you will find a clam. Larry and I set off in search of clams. I soon grew bored, but true to his hunter gatherer nature Larry returned with a bag of clams, which we cooked and ate.
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I am from Hawaii and have lived there almost all of my life. As a result some things that are common to others are unusual and fascinating to me. Cacti and desert plants and animals are big time novelties for me.
A relatively short hike from the resort was full of novelty and at the end of the trail a swimming beach with a smooth rock seashore. Even though I am from Hawaii clear water, colorful fish and sheer sea cliffs never cease to attract me.
Speaking of the neat and new, I had never seen a Tarantula in real life. Our scuba guide assured me that they are not poisonous and in general somewhat timid. Their hair can cause a skin irritation and so he advised against trying to pet one--no problem there. Coming home from town one night a tarantula was spotted in the road. I insisted that the car be stopped so I could get out and see the little critter, take his picture and see how close I could get before one of us got scared away.
The Villa Del Palmar did not lack for creature comfort or food in anyway, however one does not live on resort food alone and soon we were venturing into town for dinner. The long smooth road into town seemed to shorten daily and soon our 45 minute drive was a 35 minute drive. One night we returned to La Palapa for their seafood platter which was devine. We also enjoyed the end of the day activity and the sunset light in this pretty little town.
Parque Marino Nacional Bahia de Loreto was established in 1996 as a marine preserve. It is Mexico's largest marine preserve, an UNESCO World Heritage Site and home to over 891 species of fish. It consists of 2065 square Kilometers of shoreline, five offshore islands and countless rocky sea stacks. While fishing is not prohibited, it is strictly controlled.
We went scuba diving, snorkeling, swimming, kayaking and boat riding. In October the water is clear and warm. Clear is relative, Loreto waters were not the gin clear found in some parts of the South Pacific and it is my belief that less clear translates into more very small things for very small fish to eat and thus sustenance on up the food chain until we see the big fish that I would like to eat.
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| Site of our first dive in Loreto |
Presumably because of the controlled fishing we saw numerous food fish as well as large lobsters when we were diving. On our first dive the dive master pointed up and we saw sea lions swimming above us.
Our hotel was located about 45 minutes out of town on a mostly well paved road. By luck and timing rather than skill, we missed a terrible rain storm that washed out parts of the road between town and our resort and stranded guests at our hotel for several days.
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| La Giganta Mountain Range with Grand Canyon Like Cliffs |
The original road was very well paved and the sections that had been washed out were under construction. Once again, overall the roads were far better than Honolulu roads. The other benefit of the recent heavy rains was that the normally dry vegetation had turned bright green.
Once again, no skill on our part in picking this little slice of paradise as some friends who owned a timeshare with the Villa Group had invited us to join them in Loreto. Thanks guys.
Signs on the beach advised that when walking in the water one should shuffle their feet to avoid stepping on a stingray. The rays were almost the color of sand, about the size of a dinner plate and quite plentiful. The bay had a smooth sandy bottom with few rock formations to attract fish and few things on which to stub a toe. The edges of the bay were another story with so many colorful fish that sometimes it felt like fishy rush hour and we had to compete for ocean space.
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| The Bay at sunrise |
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| The Clams Pre-Lunch |
We had read that we could gather Chocolate Clams in the bay in front of the resort, but many swims did not reveal any clams. Finally we resorted to asking the kayak rental person to tell us how to gather Chocolate Clams. He said to look for their eyes in about 10 feet of water and when they retreat into the sand dig in that spot and you will find a clam. Larry and I set off in search of clams. I soon grew bored, but true to his hunter gatherer nature Larry returned with a bag of clams, which we cooked and ate.
.jpg)
I am from Hawaii and have lived there almost all of my life. As a result some things that are common to others are unusual and fascinating to me. Cacti and desert plants and animals are big time novelties for me.
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| The Malecon at Sunset |
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| Seafood Platter at La Palapa |
